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The Gabi Block pattern is sold in single sizes – please refer to the ‘Body Measurements’ section below for information on how to select your pattern size. The PDF comprises pattern pieces for your selected pattern size, and a 36 page instruction booklet covering how to prepare your pattern pieces, make a toile, and make a number of common fit adjustments.
This is an intermediate pattern. The sewing itself is not difficult – if you can sew darts and set a sleeve, you’ll be fine – but you’re likely to need to spend some time tweaking the fit. The 36 page instruction booklet walks you through a number of common fitting adjustments, but if you’re completely new to fitting, you might need further help from a sewing friend or a good reference book!
Fabric & notions
I’d recommend a few metres of stable, woven cotton (without stretch/elastane) such as cotton calico. You will likely have to make at least two toiles so it is hard to determine up front a specific amount of fabric required!
Sizes 1-5 are drafted for a B-cup (2”/5 cm difference between your full bust and your high bust measurement), whilst sizes 8-12 are drafted for a D-cup (4”/10cm difference between your full bust and your high bust measurement). Sizes 6 and 7 are available in both the B and D cup. Select a size based on your full bust if you are a B or D cup as described above.
If the difference between your high bust and full bust measurements is different from this, you may wish to make a full or small bust adjustment (an “FBA” or an “SBA”) to the bodice pattern pieces. You could try making the first toile unaltered to see how much of an adjustment to make. Try selecting a size based on your high bust plus 2” or 4” (for the B or D cup respectively) and doing an FBA/SBA, but also consider the waist measurement on that size – if the waist size is a better match on the size for your full bust, you may be better off going with that size. If in doubt, experiment with your toile.
The Gabi block is drafted for a height of approximately 5’6″ / 168cm.
The pattern testers said…
“My judgment is that this can be a good starting point for different sorts of garments if one is well acquainted with modifying a pattern on one’s personal measurements, something that comes mainly with good sewing lessons and a bit of practical experience.”
“I found the photos and instructions really clear and easy to follow and I’m sure I’ll be able to use these in other patterns.”
“I’m still working my way to the “perfect” fit but I made a lot of progress. Overall, this is a great bodice sloper. I started with size 7 D cup and it’s the closest out of package fit I’ve ever had.”
“I have finished my block and it fitted me perfect with no adjustments! In fact its the best fitting toile I’ve ever made! The drafting is just amazing!”
“I wanted to say I love the concept of the Gabi Block and it was really easy to follow your info sheets and the pattern was great. I cut a 7 B cup as I normally need an FBA but I am under the measurements for the larger cup. I need to do a few adjustments but it’s a pretty good starting block and I’m looking forward to doing some drafting soon!”
A case study:
Read about Josephine’s experience in her Case Study post. Josephine’s measurements fell across a few sizes, so she did some grading, and made quite a few fit adjustments. After three toiles she was happy with the fit and then drafted this button-backed shell top which she says is the best fitting top she’s ever made!
Gabi on Instagram…