My kind of skirt suit

I’m a big fan of using patterns as many times as possible. I’m working towards building up a core set of tried and true basic patterns for which I’ve worked out all the fit adjustments, that I know I can just pick up, cut and sew. My very own Pearson and Pope Agnes Skirt pattern is definitely one of them – I’ve now got a collection of almost ten Agnes Skirts! And I now realise that I’ve had a great collarless jacket pattern sitting in my pattern stash all along! And so, I made a skirt suit…

The fabric

The fabric is a plain black ‘fancy’ fabric I got a long time ago, from Linton Tweed. It has a really beautiful texture which elevates the simple lines of this suit perfectly.

For the jacket, I paired it with a lightweight floral viscose lining, but I used a plain acetate lining for the sleeves so that it is easy to get it on and off!

The Jacket

The jacket is a Schnittchen Patterns Coco Jacket, which I’ve made once before. It’s a nice and simple make, and I think the only points of interest are that I inserted contrast flat piping between the facings and the lining, taped the centre front seam for extra stability, and inserted some lambswool sleeve heads.

The lining is bagged out and then turned through an opening in one sleeve.

I love the rounded neckline, which I think works well with scoop neck tops (provided the neckline is wider than that of the jacket – I plan to make some and use the jacket pattern to ensure they match it nicely!) as well as shirt collars.

I definitely plan to make this again in a nice bright tweed at some point, and jazz that version up with some pockets/trim. But I really love the plain simplicity of this black version and I think I’ll get a great deal of wear from it. It works well with both trousers and its matching skirt, so it’s a great piece for my working wardrobe.

The Skirt

As I’ve mentioned, the skirt is made from my own Pearson and Pope pattern, the Agnes Skirt. I drafted the original version of this pattern because I hadn’t come across exactly what I was looking for in a pencil skirt pattern and I really wanted a smart, lined, professional looking pencil skirt. Those features are exactly why I’ve made it over and over again. This version is made with a Petersham waistband facing rather than the original waistband. There’s a tutorial for this facing on the Pearson and Pope website, and it’s fast becoming my favourite waist treatment for the Agnes skirt, particularly for tweeds or thicker fabrics.

6 thoughts on “My kind of skirt suit

  1. Using curved petersham is so good for a waistband but I find that it is rarely stocked amongst the haberdashery in dress fabric shops. Thank you for directing to the tutorial where it describes how to curve your own as I had not realised that this was a possibility.

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    1. Hi Barbarags, glad it helps! Yes, the difference between true petersham and grosgrain ribbon, which looks very similar, is that petersham will curve whereas grosgrain won’t. A lot of the time the names are used interchangeably though! Also, I know Minerva Crafts sell a curved petersham, in case that helps to find some!

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  2. Hello,

    How would you compare this Schnittchen Coco Jacket to the Sew Over It Coco Jacket you made before (in terms of fit, ease of sewing…)?
    I got some nice jacquard fabric, and am trying to choose a pattern. Any pointers would be very helpful!

    Thanks

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    1. Hi Isabelle! For me, the Schnittchen worked best straight out of the box. The fit through the shoulders, the sleeve etc was fab, and it looks a more professional jacket on the inside in my opinion, because it has the lining back pleat and jacket facings already drafted, whereas the SOI Coco is just lined to the edge of the jacket, and doesn’t have a back pleat. I would also need to adjust the fit of the the SOI Coco if I make it again – the sleeves feel a bit “puffy” and slightly less comfortable than the Schnittchen Coco. I have worn the Schnittchen for full days at work or in court, and never really noticed it, whereas the SOI I’m more likely to take off as soon as I’m out of a meeting because it feels a little funny. That said, a lot of that is just down to fitting tweaks, and if I were to make a fresh toile and sort out the fitting issues, it would be a great jacket – it does offer a different shape and style to the Schnittchen. It’s also relatively easy to draft facings and the lining pleat for it if you’ve done that sort of thing before. (Happy to do a post on how to do this, if you haven’t!).
      Either way, I would say they are both quite easy and quick to make, as jackets go. Hope that helps!

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      1. Hi Michelle,
        Thanks a lot for the reply!
        In this case, I will do the Schnittchen Coco. I am still fairly new to sewing, so don’t feel confident yet to tackle fitting tweaks by myself.
        I haven’t drafted any patterns myself yet, so a post on drafting facings and lining pleats would be welcome. It will be very useful as my skills set develops.

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